EVERY STEP A“NEW POINT”
IMPORTANT INFORMATION BEFORE YOU BEGIN It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you read and
understand this information completely prior to starting, as improper installation can void the
warranties.
INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY Before installing, carefully inspect all materials for defects, as
materials with visible defects are not covered under warranty. Keep in mind that wood is a natural
product and can vary in color and grain, and may contain natural characteristics that differ from plank to
plank. We do not warrant against these natural variations or variations from sample to plank. If you are
not satisfied with the flooring before installation, contact your dealer instead of installing the flooring.
Accepting or rejecting the material should be done for the full shipment of quantities only, not carton by
carton or plank by plank. The material is manufactured to exceed industry standards (ANSI/HPVA EF
2009).
As the final inspector, it's your responsibility to inspect for proper color, finish, style, and quality before
installation. Ensure that the flooring is the correct material and address any characteristics you do not
desire before installation. The manufacturer declines responsibility for any costs incurred when planks
with visible defects have been installed. Using stain, filler, or putty stick for the correction of minor
defects during installation should be accepted as normal procedure. Depending on the layout, a 5%
cutting allowance must be added to the actual square footage amount needed (Diagonal, herringbone,
or bordered installations will require a higher percentage).
Tools and Equipment Needed: • Broom or vacuum • Tape measure • Chalk line & chalk • Hammer •
Moisture meter • Hand saw • Electric miter saw/table saw • Pry bar • Safety glasses • Color wood filler •
NIOSH designated dust mask
PRE-INSTALLATION & JOBSITE CONDITIONS It is the installer/owner’s responsibility to ensure that the
jobsite conditions and subfloor are environmentally and structurally acceptable before installing any
hardwood flooring. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for failures or deficiencies of hardwood
flooring resulting from or related to subfloor, subsurface, or jobsite environmental conditions. All
substrates must be clean, flat, dry, and structurally sound.
Subfloors must be clean and free of dirt, curing compounds, sealers, drywall mud, paint, wax, grease,
urethane, or other materials that may affect the integrity of the flooring material or adhesives used to
install the flooring. Install cabinets prior to flooring to prevent damage to the flooring. New Point USA is
not responsible for the removal of cabinets in the event of a claim. All subfloors and subfloor systems
must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer's recommendations. Local
building codes may only establish minimum requirements of the flooring system and may not provide
adequate rigidity and support for proper installation and performance of a hardwood floor. Whenever
possible, install the planks perpendicular to the floor joists for maximum stability. Our warranties DO
NOT cover any problems caused by inadequate substructures or improper installation of said
substructures. Moisture testing is crucial, and it is imperative to maintain records of the results both
before and during the installation process.
Storage: The wood flooring should be stored in a dry place, in rooms that are not exposed to moisture
and condensation. It's best to keep it in its original, undamaged packaging and protected from light.
Changes in environmental conditions can affect the product's quality. Place the parquet packages on
wooden pallets and avoid direct contact with the floor. Do not store the wood flooring at the job site
under uncontrolled climate conditions. Avoid storing in garages. And exterior patios, for example, are not
acceptable areas to store wood flooring.
Acclimation: The goal of acclimation is to allow the flooring's moisture content (MC) to adjust to its new
surroundings before full installation.
1. Ensure that the building is enclosed.
2. Verify that the building is maintained at normal living conditions for temperature and humidity.
3. Where building codes allow, permanent heating and/or air-conditioning systems should be
operating at least seven days preceding installation to promote proper acclimation.
4. If it is not possible for the permanent heating and/or air-conditioning system to be operating
before, during, and after installation, a temporary heating and/or dehumidification system that
mimics normal temperature and humidity conditions can enable the installation to proceed until
the permanent heating and/or air-conditioning system is operating.
5. Upon delivery, check wood flooring moisture content with a moisture meter to establish a
baseline for required acclimation. Check the moisture content of multiple boards. A good
representative sample is typically 40 boards for every 1,000 square feet of flooring. Prior to
installation, ensure that wood flooring is within an acceptable range of moisture content with
the wood subfloor.
6. To help with acclimation, divide the flooring into small lots and/or open the packaging. A typical
method involves stacking the flooring with ¾-inch to 1-inch sticks between each layer to ensure
air circulation on all sides of the boards.
7. Acclimate your floor as close to the installation area as possible for a minimum of 72 hours until
Equilibrium Moisture Content has reached 6%-9% MC.
Wood's Comfort Zone As a general rule, with geographic exceptions, wood flooring will perform best
when the interior environment is controlled to stay within a relative humidity range of 30 to 50 percent
and a temperature range of 60° to 80° Fahrenheit. (In some climates, the ideal humidity range might be
higher or lower – 25 to 45 percent or 45 to 65 percent, for example.)
The chart on the following page indicates the moisture content wood will likely have at any given
combination of temperature and humidity. Note that equilibrium moisture contents in the
recommended temperature/humidity range (shaded area) coincide with the 6-to-9 percent range within
which most hardwood flooring is manufactured. Although some movement can be expected even
between 6 and 9 percent, wood can expand and shrink more dramatically outside that range. When
wood is neither gaining nor losing moisture, equilibrium moisture content (EMC) has been reached.
NOTE: Not properly acclimating wood flooring may cause excessive expansion, shrinkage, dimensional
distortion or structural damage.
How to Calculate Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC):
1. Measure Ambient Conditions:
o Determine the current temperature and relative humidity (RH) of the installation site
using a hygrometer.
2. Use the EMC Chart:
o Locate the measured temperature and RH on an EMC chart (available in wood industry
references or online).
3. Find Corresponding EMC:
o The chart will show the corresponding EMC percentage for the given temperature and
RH. This percentage represents the moisture content the wood will naturally achieve
under those conditions.
4. Check Wood Moisture Content:
o Use a moisture meter to measure the current moisture content of the wood flooring.
5. Compare Results:
o Compare the measured wood moisture content to the EMC from the chart. The wood is
at EMC when the moisture content matches the chart value and remains stable.
6. Adjust as Needed:
o If the wood moisture content is higher or lower than the EMC, continue acclimating until
the values match, indicating that the wood is in balance with the environment.
By following these steps, you can ensure the wood has reached its equilibrium moisture content before
installation, minimizing the risk of future expansion or contraction.
Chart taken from Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material (Agriculture Handbook, 72).
Forest Products Laboratory, U.S. Department of Agriculture
Here is an example of how to use the Moisture Content of Wood chart:
My home is normally and currently maintained at an average temperature of: 70°F
My home is normally and currently maintained at an average relative humidity of: 40% RH
The combination of 70°F and 40%RH on the chart shows that the floor should be acclimated moisture
content of: 7.7%
The value of 7.7% MC falls within the shaded area on the chart.
Continue to acclimate the flooring until the flooring moisture content varies less than 3% from the
subfloor (e.g. if subfloor has a moisture content of 6%, the maximum moisture content of the flooring
should be 9%). Testing of the flooring, subfloor, and relative humidity of the job site can determine this
(see Subfloor & Flooring Moisture Testing sections).
Moisture Testing Subfloor General: Before installing, it is important to test the subfloor for moisture
content. If high moisture readings are found, it is essential to identify the moisture source and fix the
problem. Extend acclimation time and increase ventilation until the proper conditions have been met.
Additionally, apply a moisture barrier. Please note that test results are only valid on the day of testing
and may not account for moisture fluctuations due to seasonal changes. Regardless of subfloor moisture
content, the use of a moisture/vapor barrier is necessary for all installations over a crawl space or
basement. It is important to keep records of all moisture testing, as these may be required for future
reference. Please be aware that New Point USA does not provide a warranty against moisture-related
problems. To minimize moisture transfer from the slab, apply: Bostik MVP4 , Mapei Planiseal MSP.
Wood Subfloors: Please remember the following information: Use a moisture meter to test the moisture
content of the wood subfloor. If the results show moisture vapor at or exceeding 12%, determine the
source of the moisture and correct the problem. Do not install the floor without a vapor barrier. New
Point USA always recommends using a moisture/vapor barrier, especially if the moisture content of the
flooring and subfloor differ by more than 3%.
Concrete Subfloors: Before installing the floor on a concrete subfloor, it is important to test for moisture
vapor pressure in multiple locations to ensure consistent readings. If the test results indicate that the
moisture vapor exceeds the specified levels, do not proceed with the floor installation unless you use an
impermeable vapor retarder with a perm rating of less than 0.13. This will effectively block the moisture.
• Calcium Chloride Test (ASTM F 1869): Maximum vapor emissions cannot exceed 3lbs/1000SF in
24 hours.
• Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter: Moisture readings should not exceed 4% on the upper
scale.
• In-Situ Probe Method (ASTM F 2170): Relative Humidity levels should not exceed 75%.
• Moisture Testing Wood Floor: Use a reliable moisture meter that will accurately read the
specific wood species being installed. Examples of acceptable moisture meters include
Delmhorst or a Lignomat SDM. If needed, contact the moisture meter manufacturer to verify
settings for the specific species being installed.
Moisture Barrier Requirements
General: Unexpected changes to subfloor moisture content may cause dimensional changes to the floor.
To ensure a lifetime of satisfaction, it is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that New Point USA Engineered
Hardwood Flooring be installed over a moisture barrier or vapor retarder (following the manufacturer's
guidelines) per the following specifications:
• Wood Subfloors: For best results, use a moisture barrier/vapor retarder with a perm rating
between 0.7 and 50 when tested in accordance with ASTM E-96 Method A.
• Concrete Subfloors: For concrete applications, a moisture barrier/vapor retarder is Mandatory.
For unlimited moisture protection, New Point USA recommends Bostik MVP4 (Moisture Vapor
Protection) , Mapei Planiseal MSP , Sika MB (Moisture Barrier) , PALLMANN P104 Turbo.
RECOMMENDED SUBFLOOR SURFACES
Concrete Subfloor Guidelines: The concrete slabs should have a high compressive strength and should
be constructed to prevent groundwater from permeating the concrete. Engineered hardwood flooring
can be installed on, above, or below grade, and it can also be installed over above-ground, suspended
concrete floors. The suspended concrete must be a minimum of 1 1/2 inches thick and must be
structurally sound. However, lightweight concrete (which usually contains high amounts of gypsum) with
a density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot is an exception. To test for lightweight concrete, scratch
the surface of the concrete with a nail. If the concrete crumbles or turns to powder, it is not sound, and
hardwood flooring should not be installed. For lightweight concrete subfloors, use the floating
installation method (5 ply products 3” or wider) only. The slab must have a minimum compressive
strength of 3000 psi and be free from non-compatible sealers, waxes, oil, paint, drywall compound, etc.
Check for the presence of sealers by applying drops of water to the slab; if the water beads up, there
may be sealers or oils. Do not attempt to glue a wood floor over a chalky or soft concrete slab.
Specifications for Lightweight Concrete:
Make sure the concrete is well bonded to the sub-floor, check for hollow spots, cracks, and loose areas.
Also, ensure that the concrete is clean, flat to specification, and dry. Over lightweight concrete (less than
3000 psi), if the flooring adhesive used has a higher shear strength than the concrete, use the Floated
Subfloor installation method. If the psi of the concrete is unknown, use the Floated Subfloor installation
method or contact the adhesive manufacturer. A rule of thumb is to draw a nail across the top; if it
leaves an indentation, it is probably lightweight concrete. Burnished, slick steel-troweled slabs may
require screening with a 30-grit abrasive.
Wood Subfloor Guidelines: Subfloor panels should conform to U.S. Voluntary Product Standard PS1-07,
Construction and Industrial Plywood and/or US Voluntary PS 2-04 and/or Canadian performance
standard CAN/CSA 0325.0-92 Construction Sheathing. Other CSA standards also apply.
Acceptable Panel Subfloors: Truss/joist spacing will determine the minimum acceptable thickness of the
panel subflooring.
• On truss/joist spacing of 16” o/c or less: The industry standard for single panel subflooring is a
minimum of 5/8” CD Exposure 1 subfloor panels, 4x8 sheets.
• On truss/joist spacing of more than 16”, up to 19.2” o/c: The standard is nominal 3/4” T&G CD
Exposure 1 Plywood subfloor panels or OSB Exposure 1 subfloor panels, 4’x8’ sheets, glued and
mechanically fastened.
• For truss/joist systems spaced more than 19.2” o/c up to 24” o/c: Use a minimum of 7/8” T&G
CD Exposure 1 Plywood subfloor panels or OSB Exposure 1 subfloor panels, 4’x8’ sheets, glued
and mechanically fastened – or two layers of subflooring or brace between the truss/joist per
the truss/joist manufacturer’s recommendations and local building codes. Some truss/joist
systems cannot be cross-braced and still maintain stability.
• Do not glue, staple, or nail down hardwood flooring over particle board; floating applications
are acceptable (for products 3” or wider).
Additional tools & material needed: • Hardwood adhesive • Clean white rags • Adhesive trowel •
Mineral spirits / urethane adhesive remover • Straight edge
Nail/Staple Down Only: If the old flooring is unsuitable, overlay it with new underlayment. Ensure that
staples/cleats can properly penetrate and secure the flooring.
Glue Down Only: Do not install over more than one layer exceeding 1/8” in thickness. Clean flooring
with an appropriate cleaner, allow to dry, and deg loss using an abrasive pad if necessary. Remove wax or
other coatings with a quality stripper, rinse, and dry. Always check for proper adhesion before installing.
CAUTION:
Do not sand existing resilient tile, sheet vinyl flooring, or flooring felt, as they may contain asbestos
fibers. Inhalation of asbestos dust can cause serious harm. Before removing these floors, check local,
state, and federal laws for handling hazardous materials.
Acoustic Cork Underlayment:
For glue-down installations, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install the cork underlayment. The
cork underlayment should be fully attached to the subfloor and made of pure granulated cork combined
with a polyurethane binder. It should have a density of 11.4 to 13 lbs. per cubic foot.
Crawl Space:
Crawl Space Height: The crawl space should have a minimum height of 18 inches (457 mm) from the
ground to the underside of the floor joists. Ventilation: The crawl space should be adequately ventilated,
with perimeter venting equal to at least 1 square foot of ventilation for every 150 square feet of crawl
space area. of the crawl space area, properly located to ensure cross ventilation.
Unconditioned Crawl Space:
Vapor Retarder: The entire earth or a thin concrete slab in the crawl space should be covered 100% by a
vapor retarder, typically a 6 mil black polyethylene sheet or a puncture-resistant membrane, such as
Class C, meeting ASTM D1745 standards.
PRE-INSTALLATION / JOB PREPARATION
Inspect the Flooring:
Inspect all materials for color, finish, milling, and grade. Set aside pieces that may not be acceptable once
installed. The manufacturer is not responsible for any costs incurred when planks with visible defects are
installed.
Undercut Door Casings:
Undercut all door casings 1/16" higher than the thickness of the flooring being installed. Use a scrap
piece of flooring as a guide and cut the casing with a handsaw or power jamb saw set to the correct
height.
Blending of Cartons:
To achieve a uniform appearance, open and work from several cartons at a time, dry-lay the flooring, and
mix planks from several cartons. This ensures color consistency and the removal of any visual defects.
Match Transition Moldings:
Blend all transitions and moldings to planks with similar color and graining. Set them aside for use as
needed.
Subfloor Preparation:
Inspect thoroughly and replace any existing flooring or subfloor that shows signs of water damage or
structural weakness, as exposure to snow and rain during construction can adversely affect certain
materials, especially OSB. Additionally, the subfloor surface must be flat with a maximum tolerance of
3/16" (5 mm) over 10' (3 m). Any irregularities should be corrected to ensure a smooth, even surface for
installation.
Layout of Flooring:
To achieve a random appearance, it's important to stagger the floor planks. You can use planks of
random lengths from the carton or cut planks to random lengths, making sure they differ by at least six
inches. Maintain a minimum six-inch gap between end joints and install planks of different lengths
randomly to avoid a patterned look. To minimize waste, use the end cuts from starter rows at the
opposite side of the room to complete rows or to start the next row.
Expansion Space:
Expansion space around the perimeter should equal the thickness of the flooring material. For floating
installations, the minimum is 1/2” regardless of material thickness. For commercial installations, use a
minimum of 1/2” expansion.
GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES Refer to the adhesive label for proper trowel, spread rates, and
installation application information.
Getting Started:
Select a starter wall, preferably an outside wall, for straight and square alignment with the room.
Measure out from this wall at each end, the width of two planks plus the required expansion space
(should equal the thickness of the flooring material or minimum of 1/2”). Snap a chalk line from these
points, parallel to the wall. Secure a straight edge inside the chalk line to prevent shifting during
installation.
Spreading the Adhesive:
Using the proper trowel, hold it at a 45° angle to ensure proper spread rate. Apply pressure to leave
ridges of adhesive on the substrate with minimal adhesive between ridges. Temperature and airflow can
affect the adhesive's open time.
Installing The Floor:
Spread adhesive from the chalk line/straightedge out to the width of two planks. Install the first row
along the chalk line/straightedge, securing them in place with the tongue facing the starter wall. Ensure
proper alignment to prevent gaps in subsequent rows. Continue spreading adhesive 2-3 feet wide across
the room length, never spreading more than can be covered in 30-45 minutes. Push planks into place,
maintaining a six-inch minimum between end joints. Never strike a mallet or hammer directly on the
flooring. Remove adhesive from the surface as you work. Approach the end wall by cutting the width of
the last row and set planks in place. Glue down the first two boards and restrict foot traffic for 6-8 hours.
Clean any wet adhesive with a damp cloth and roll the floor with a 100-150 lbs. roller.
Final Inspection:
After cleaning, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or imperfections. Touch up as needed. Typical
climates allow foot traffic within 24 hours; additional curing time may be required.
NAIL OR STAPLE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
Additional Tools and Material Needed: • Drill
• Air hose
• 15 lb. roofers felt
• Tapping block
• In-line air regulator
• Compressor
• Pneumatic nailer/stapler
Before beginning, refer to the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above. Note that our products are
not warranted against squeaking, popping, or crackling with staple-down or nail-down methods. These
noises are normal and can change with environmental conditions.
Set Up and Use of Pneumatic Staplers and Nailers:
Occasional noises are inherent and not covered under warranty. Reduce squeaking, popping, and
crackling by ensuring the subfloor is structurally sound, clean, and properly prepared. Adjust the
stapler/nailer to prevent damage to the planks. Test on scrap material first to ensure proper fastener
placement
Getting Started:
After preparing the subfloor, cover it with 15lb. asphalt felt paper. This material will help to keep the
floor clean and help to retard moisture from below (there is no complete moisture barrier system for
staple or nail-down applications). Select a starter wall, preferably an outside wall, for straight and
square alignment with the room. Measure out from this wall at each end, the overall width of the
plank (board width + tongue + the space needed (equal the thickness of the flooring material or
minimum of 1/2” for expansion). Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to the wall. Install the
first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into position with the tongue
facing away from the starter wall (toward you). Drill pilot holes through the face of the plank every 6”
(in the dark grain), approximately 1” from the back edge of the board and secure planks with 1”
finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill with appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler
from the surface. Blind nail at a 45° angle through the tongue 1”-2” from the end joints and every 6”
in between along the length of the starter boards (Pre-drill holes to make this easier). Proper
alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding
rows of flooring.
Installing the Floor:
Continue to install the flooring, making sure to nail/staple 1”-2” from the ends and every 3”-4”
thereafter. Products that are 9/16" or thicker - nail/staple 1"-2" from the ends and every 6" to 8"
thereafter. Ensure the tool is adjusted properly to ensure that the fastener is at the proper angle and
is flush within the nail pocket. Maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints and randomly
install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance. Use a tapping block to help engage the
boards together until the tongue-and-groove is flush and tight and no gaps are present between
adjacent planks. Never use a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to engage the
tongue-and-groove as this can damage the flooring and/or finish. Approach the end wall by cutting
the width of the last row, allowing for expansion along the end wall. Secure the final planks by
manually blind nailing and/or face-nailing and filling with wood filler.
FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
(Products 3” or wider only) Additional tools & material needed:
• Floating floor adhesive
• T&G adhesive
• Terry cloth towels
• Foam underlayment
• Pry/pull bar
• Clean Green™ Hardwood Floor Cleaner
• 6 mil poly plastic sheeting
• Tapping block & spacers
• 2-in-1 underlayment
Before beginning, refer to the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above. Do not install over carpet.
Secure vinyl to the subfloor. Ensure creaking and loose floorboards are secure.
Getting Started:
Remove all doors and shoe moldings, and undercut door casings 1/16” higher than the thickness of
the flooring and underlayment to be installed. Place a scrap piece of plank and a sheet of
underlayment against the door casing to act as a guide and cut the door casing with a handsaw or
power jamb saw set to the correct height. Measure the width of the room to ensure the last row is at
least 1 1/2” wide. Select a starter wall, preferably an outside wall, for straight and square alignment
with the room. Measure out from the wall at each end, the overall width of the plank plus 1/2” for
expansion. Snap a chalk line using brightly colored chalk from these points. Install underlayment:
unroll the 6 mil poly sheeting, overlapping edges 4” and sealing seams with clear plastic tape. Allow
the poly to run 2” up the wall and trim back after installation of flooring. Install 1/8” foam
underlayment. Use of a floating floor 2-in-1 underlayment may be used. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions for application.
Installing the Floor:
Insert spacers at walls to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and the wall. Before
gluing planks, dry lay the first two rows of flooring, working from right to left, with the groove facing
the straight edge (starter board). Ensure there are no gaps between the boards. Use a tapping block
if needed. Immediately wipe away any excessive adhesive with a clean, slightly dampened cloth. As
you approach the end wall, it may be necessary to cut the width of the last row. Secure the final
planks by manually blind nailing and/or face-nailing and filling with wood filler. Remove the straight
edge and glue down the first two boards. Allow the floor to dry for a minimum of 12 hours before
removing all spacing wedges and allowing foot traffic. Install trim and moldings the following day.
Radiant Heat Systems
• New Point USA engineered hardwood flooring is suitable for use over radiant
heat systems, provided that it meets the specific requirements outlined by the
National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA). It is essential to ensure stable job
site conditions, subfloor suitability, and proper acclimation when installing over a
radiant heat system. The installer bears the responsibility of ensuring that the
recommended environmental conditions are met for installation. For information
on the compatibility of your radiant heat system with hardwood flooring and to
learn about the specific installation requirements, please refer to your radiant
heat system manufacturer. For more detailed information about radiant heat
systems, you may visit the Radiant Professionals Alliance (RPA) at
www.radiantprofessionalsalliance.org.
• Consultation and Best Practices: Due to the wide variety of radiant heat
systems available (Hydronic, embedded in concrete, electrical wire/coil, heating
film/mat), each with unique features and applications, it is recommended that
you consult with your radiant heating provider for best practices, installation
methods, and proper subfloors.
• Installation Method: If the required fastener schedule cannot be followed due
to the radiant heating system used, a full spread glue down installation is
required. Follow all flooring adhesive requirements provided by the adhesive
manufacturer.
• System Preparation: The radiant heat system must be turned on and in
operation for at least 6 days before installation.
• Acclimation: The flooring must be acclimated according to New Point USA
engineered hardwood acclimation instructions over the radiant heat with the
system turned on throughout the acclimation period.
• Temperature Adjustment: The system must be turned down to 65°F and
maintained 24 hours prior to installation.
• Post-Installation: Once the installation is complete, gradually bring the system
back to normal operating temperature over a period of 4-5 days. The surface
temperature of the flooring should never exceed 82°F. The use of an in-floor
sensor is highly recommended. Consult with your radiant heating system
manufacturer to successfully limit the maximum temperature.
• Temperature Impact: Rugs placed over radiant heated flooring can increase the
surface temperature in that area by 3° to 5°F.
• Humidity Control: Relative Humidity must be maintained between 30% and
55%. The use of a humidifier may be necessary to achieve this.
• System Shutdown: When turning off the radiant heat system, reduce the
temperature slowly at a rate of 1.5° degrees per day. Never turn the system off
abruptly.
For additional information on radiant heating systems, refer to
www.radiantprofessionalsalliance.org or the NWFA’s Radiant Heat Guidelines. Cupping,
gapping, or shrinking due to improper use of radiant heat is not covered by the New
Point USA warranty.
Completing the Job – All Installations
Sweep or vacuum the floor, clean with a proper hardwood floor cleaner, and install transition pieces.
Inspect for any imperfections and touch up as needed. Leave unused material with the owner for
future repairs. Use plywood or hardboard when moving heavy appliances or furniture.
Floor Protection During Construction
When covering the floor for protection, use material with a vapor permeance of 1 perm or more to
prevent trapping moisture. Tape the covering material to the base or shoe moldings, not the floor.
Change coverings as needed to prevent color variation due to light exposure. By following these
comprehensive guidelines, you can ensure a successful installation of New Point USA-engineered
hardwood flooring, maintaining its beauty and performance for years to come.
CAUTION: WOOD DUST
The International Agency for Research on Cancer has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen. The
sawing, sanding, and/or machining of wood products can produce wood dust that can cause
respiratory, eye, and skin irritations. Equipment should be equipped with a dust collector to reduce
airborne wood dust. Wear an appropriate NIOSH designated dust mask to reduce exposure to
airborne wood dust. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of irritation, flush eyes or skin with
water for at least 15 minutes. In cases of severe irritation, seek immediate medical attention. For
further technical or installation questions or to request a Product Specification Data Sheet, contact
the manufacturer at 1-800-xxx-xxxx.
WARNING
Drilling, sawing, sanding, or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a
substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or
use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information, go
to p65warnings.ca.gov/products/wood-dust.
WARNING! Avoid sanding, sweeping, scraping, drilling, sawing, beadblasting, or mechanically
chipping existing resilient flooring, backing, lining felt, asphaltic “cutback” adhesives, or other
adhesives.
These products may contain either asbestos fibers and/or crystalline silica. Avoid creating dust.
Inhalation of such dust is a cancer and respiratory tract hazard. Smoking by individuals exposed to
asbestos fibers greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm. Unless positively certain that the
product is a non-asbestos-containing material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations
may require that the material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern the removal
and disposal of material. See the current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI)
publication Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings for detailed
information and instructions on removing all resilient covering structures. For current information, go
to rfci.com.
